Saddle Height - The difference between comfort and pain!
While out riding today I passed an older gentleman who was riding a comfort bike, he was seated darn near sideways on the bike, his head hung low and his face was filled with pain. He had committed a Newbie cycling mistake that most of us just starting out are guilty of, his saddle was WAY TO LOW!
There are more times than I can count or remember where I have seen people out riding who were obviously cycling neophytes. You see them coming from a mile away, you notice them because their knees are pumping wildly up and down and usually their shoulders rock back and forth. Once you get close to these folks they invariably have a look of disdain and discomfort on their faces, and viola, their saddle is inches too low! To an experienced cyclist this is a sure mark of a cycling newbie, the only thing that screams Newbie more is the dreaded Rookie Mark (AKA Chainring Tattoo.)
It’s a fact that bicycle saddle height can quite literally mean the difference between a life time of comfortable and pleasant riding and a short lived love affair with your bicycle.
But let’s first discuss the difference between a bicycle seat and a bicycle saddle. Some folks (myself included) call a road, mountain or comfort bicycle seat a “saddle,” this is because when riding these types of bikes much of your weight is supported by your hands and legs as well as your posterior on the saddle, hence you are straddling the bicycle much like you would straddle a horse. On a recumbent bicycle things are situated just a little differently, you are literally in a “seated” position and all of your weight is supported by your posterior on the seat. This article will discuss saddle adjustment for road and comfort bicycles that use saddles only.
If you think back to when you were a little kid you probably adjusted your saddle height so that both feet could be placed flat on the ground. The idea obviously being that when we stop we can put a foot down and not have to get off the seat, or perhaps we did this because we believed that we might be able to prevent a crash.
I am here to tell you that there are only three good reasons to adjust a bicycle saddle like this;
1) Bikes for small children - this method is very helpful for very small children just learning to ride because the child can easily put their feet down to prevent a fall.
2) Mountain Bikes - on a mountain bike there are times when it is safer to have lower saddle height for safety and agility reasons. We won’t be discussing mountain bike saddles in this article.
3) Banana seat bicycles - this bicycle type is strictly a “don’t I look cool” bike and is in no way an efficient choice for anyone seriously considering riding over 2 or 3 miles (I’ll explain why in just a minute.)
Those of us who have been cycling for a while and who take it fairly seriously learn from friends and other riders that we should adjust our saddles so that, when seated on the bike in a normal riding position each leg is almost straight when the pedal is at the bottom of it’s rotation arc.
The reason for this is two fold and is based on scientific studies completed on elite level athletes and recreational riders alike:
1) Extending the leg to near it’s full extension length generates much more power to the pedals and is the most efficient way for a human leg to pedal. The largest muscles of the legs and gluteus are doing most of the work. (think pushing down and pulling up, the motion is also akin to walking.)
2) Much less stress is placed on the knees. (when peddling with a low saddle height you are peddling via the knees and are performing a scissor action, the knees are delivering most of the power and taking most of the stress)
Ok, so lets go back to our childhood when we had the seats adjusted way down low, you’ll remember that while pedaling your knees would rise up to near handle bar level or higher and if you pedaled up a hill it really hurt! You might have even hit your chin with you knees a few times! The idea of riding 5 miles brought fear to many of us, but some of us did ride those distances in this poor position, and we paid dearly for days with aching legs! Without knowing it we were killing our knees and making our muscles fight each other… Cycling any distance like this simply isn’t enjoyable!
But there is a better way!
So without further ado, here is a step by step method to adjust your saddle height for maximum comfort and maximum peddling efficiency:
1) Dress in your usual cycling clothes and put on your usual cycling shoes.
2) Mount the bike and get into a comfortable riding position, you can position your bike in a doorway or near a wall and use one hand to hold yourself upright, or better yet have a friend hold the big upright by the handle bars, they should also observe as you peddle and look for the rocking motion mentioned in step 7.
3) If you normally wear a cycling jersey place a handful of loose change in your jersey cycling pockets.
4) If you use clipless pedals, click into your pedals, otherwise place the balls of your feet over the pedal axles.
5) Rotate the right pedal until it is at the bottom of it rotational stroke.
6) When adjusted properly your knee should be bent at an angle of approximately 20 degrees. Once you have this set proceed to step 7
7) Pedal backwards at a moderately slow pace (about 30-40 rpms,) your hips should not rock and your leg should be nearly straight when the pedal is at the bottom of the stroke. If you are wearing a jersey and have placed the coins in the pockets as described in step 3 you will hear the change gangling if your hips are rocking while pedaling, this means your saddle is to High.
Go for a ride of several miles, your legs will need time to adjust to this new position but you should notice a difference (it will be MUCH easier to pedal) immediately.
Over the course of several days make small adjustments to your saddle height to find the most comfortable height for your style of riding. Make adjustments in ¼” increments and always allow several miles or even better several days of riding between adjustments, your legs need time to be acclimated to each new position.
Notes:
1) As your riding level advances you may find that raising your saddle a bit more will give you added efficiency. My thoughts on this are that as your legs get into better condition your legs are able to extend more efficiently and thus you gain a fraction of an inch in usable leg length, however, you must be very careful, if your knees begin to hurt chances are you have raised your saddle to high.
2) Saddle Tilt Angle – Women are usually more comfortable when their saddles are adjusted so that the nose of the saddle and the rear of the saddle are level or slightly nose down, generally no one likes a saddle where the nose slopes down noticeably since you will continually feel like you are sliding down off the saddle. Men on the other hand often prefer to have the nose slightly higher than the rear of the saddle. (Google “bicycle saddle angle” for more info)
So take what have learned, adjust that saddle and take a ride! Your legs and posterior will thank you and you will no longer look like a newb!
Until next time, enjoy your bike and spread the word!
Gary


November 3rd, 2007 at 1:51 pm
Genius! This just made the difference between me going one mile and five!
May 12th, 2008 at 6:17 pm
My wife is a novice rider, in her early 50’s and the kids bought her a new cruiser 36″ Schwinn for mother’s day, pink and targeted at “brest cancer awareness” She only goes about 5′ tall and would rather have both feet on the ground when she stops, still on her seat. We realize this is not the most effective way to ride, but for now, it gives her more confort. My delima is I need to lower the seat more. I’m out of “lowering room” on the seat post and it would seem to me, I could get the seat post out and cut the end off a couple of inches, things would be better. I can’t seem to get the seat post out with out fear of damaging the seat post. I’m reluctant to put channel locks or a wrench with good gripping teeth on the chrome.
Is it OK to cut this post off the bottom a couple of inches? I can guarantee no one I know personnally will ever ride this bike and need to extend for the other couple of inches.
What’s your advice of getting the seat post out of the frame?
Robert
July 31st, 2008 at 9:24 pm
Yes, you can certainly saw off several inches from the bottom of the seat post, follow these steps:
1) Measure the distance from the saddle mounting bracket to the top of the seat post clamp. (this tells you how much excess tube exists, this is the length of seat post that will need to be removed, most likely this is only 1″ - 3″) Write this number down as “x”
2) Totally remove the seat post from the seat post tube and you will see a line deeply etched into the circumference of the seat post, this is a “safe line” I.E. so long as you never raise the seat above the point where that line is showing the height of the seat post and saddle will be safe. (this distance is usually between 4″ and 8″ but measure your seat post and stick with that measurement to maintain the design strength of the post)
3) Using this information you can solve your dilemma, measure the distance from the “safe line” to the “bottom” end of the tube (the end that points down when the saddle is in an upright riding position.) Now you know how much of the post MUST be available to safely adjust the seat height. Write this number down as “y”
4) Measure “x” inches, plus 1/2″ from the bottom end of the seat post and make a mark with a marker. Now measure the distance from the mark you just made to the saddle mounting bracket, as long as it is greater than the value of “y” you are fine.
5) Saw off the excess seat post using a hacksaw.
6) Measure from the bottom of the seat post “y” inches and etch in a new “safe line” for saddle height. The reason you want to do this is in case you ever sell or give the bicycle away. An unknowing rider could be seriously hurt if the seat post were to buckle due to over extension.
As for getting the seat post out of the frame, it sounds like it got a bit rusted up, that happens occasionally. Loosen the seat clamp until it is very loose, then liberally apply “3 in 1 oil” or something like it to the seat post while the bike is in an upright position, come back in a couple of hours and give the saddle a sideways twist, you may even need to bang on it with your palm. Repeat this process until the seat post slides out.
If this fails try removing the saddle and give the saddle mount a few good whacks with a rubber mallet. I have seen seat posts rusted so bad that they couldn’t be removed without ruining the bike but that is rare.
Once you get it out you can prevent this from happening in the future by gently sanding the seat post clean of rust and applying a light coat of grease to the post, don’t worry about the seat post sliding down from the grease, the clamp can be tightened sufficiently so that this will never cause you trouble, just don’t over tighten and break the bolt!
I hope this helps!
Best Regards,
Gary