May 31st, 2007
I
rode to Havre today, found the rental car place and settled in for a
nice evenings rest, it's sad to have to end another trip short but I
had a good ride and enjoyed Northern Montana thoroughly. Someday I'll
finish this ride!
May 28th - 30th, 2007 (update to entry below)
This
day was the hardest cycling day I have ever had, the head winds between
Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs and Malta were so strong that going 10mph
down a huge hill was nearly impossible, I averaged 7.5mph
this day! And it took me nearly 3 hours to ride 19.7 miles!!! It was
brutal! I actually preferred cycling uphill since I got a little break
from the 25-30mph head winds. Going down several very large hills it
truly was a struggle to break 8 mph, I had to pedal very hard to get
into the double digits on my speedometer and finally just gave up, many
times I was lucky to be going 7 mph. I was very relieved to reach Malta
and wished I had followed Jerry and Bridgette's lead and passed by the
Hot Springs and rode on to Malta.
I chose to take a rest day in
Malta, it is a very nice town, I stayed at the Sportsman Motel and it
was roomy and comfortable though I also recommend the Great Northern
Motel, I ate most of my meals at the Great Northern either in their coffee shop or in
their dining room, the people are very friendly and the fried chicken
and Jojo's are excellent! (The Pie was great too!)
After much consideration I have
decided that I must end this trip, after two days rest my left ring
finger is still numb, it has been 8 days and it keeps getting worse. I
have concluded that changing the saddle must have also
changed my posture on
the bike and transfered much more weight to my hands. My plan is now to
ride to Chinook and then Havre in the next two days and rent a car
and then go camping in Glacier NP for a week and Idaho
for a few days after that...
Note:
As of July 29th, 2007 my ring finger is still numb but slowly
improving, the medicos say it may take 3 months for it to heal
completely.
May 29th, 2007
Greetings
from Malta Montana! (I'm writing from the public library, it's cold and
rainy today and I am taking my first rest day, I'm approximately 250
miles into my trip or 1/6 complete.)
Having pedaled in Montana for 4 days now I understand why they call
this BIG SKY country! The vistas are amazing and the sky is huge! And I
have to add that the people are incredibly friendly! I have gotten so
many waves and honks of encouragement that I can hardly believe it!
Before I left I kept a close eye on the weather and as forecast the
weather hasn't been cooperative. This trip started out
just like my 2005 trip in fact, cold and rainy! But on Saturday
and Sunday the sun did come out much of the time and the temps
improved.
By Sunday night (Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs West of Saco, MT) it
was actually nice enough to camp out, however, just when you get
comfortable Mother Nature likes to remind you that she is in charge. On
my first night of camping she unleashed a furious thunderstorm followed
by 5 hours of rain. But I was snug in my tent and no harm was done.
A side
note, my left hand ring finger has been numb since the first day of the
trip, actually both hands are numb after riding for several hours
but they usually feel better the next morning, but the ring finger
has
me worried.
Unfortunately I have reached my time limit on the computer in the
library and others are waiting so please check back soon for more
stories from Montana!
May 25th, 2007
The great Indian reservation scare!
Ok,
so like everyone else planning a bicycle ride across Northern Montana I
had heard all of the horror stories regarding the Indian Reservations.
I knew before I left that the stories were probably over blown and I
also knew that things like this really are what you make them. I went
in with a positive attitude knowing that negative people attract
negative events.
What I didn't expect was the
concern non-native locals had for my safety, I was continuously warned
not to stop in Poplar and that I should also be wary of Wolf Point, I
was also told that I should never ride alone through a reservation, if
I did I would be robbed and beaten, "they are crazy on booze and
drugs" was a common refrain.
I took all of these
suggestions and warnings with a grain of salt and low and behold nothing
remotely similar to the warnings I received happened. In fact there was
a sub shop in Poplar that served up great sandwichs and hot cocoa, the
staff consisted of attractive young gals who were friendly and very
nice. Is it possible that some drugged out drunk might have mugged me?
Yes, if I were ignorant enough to cycle around at 2:00am shouting racial
slurs I'm sure things could have got ugly, but that could happen just
about anywhere.
I will add
that while stopped at
the above sub shop in Poplar the staff invited us to move our bikes
indoors, even opening up the back door to accommodate the 3rd bike
in our troop, but it turned out that this probably wasn't necessary.
What locals I did see in Poplar seemed friendly enough to me.
We were
also advised to not camp in this area (anywhere within the Fort
Peck Indian
Reservation,) it's my opinion that if you are traveling alone or in a
small group you probably should stay in a motel, especially if you pass
through these towns on a Friday or Saturday night as the locals like to
party and get a little rambunctious on occasion, but if you are in a
larger group you should be fine.
My advice for
touring cyclists riding across Montana on Route 2 is to not to
worry about the nasty things some people claim may happen. Yes you
should practice discretion, many people in the area are poor and some
of the teenagers can be a little light fingered, but the area
businesses are glad to help you secure your property. Also, if you have
a problem with Indians (if you are a bigot) then you probably should
avoid the area altogether, racism is a funny thing, people can sense
such hatred and that alone can cause a lot of trouble.
High School graduation night in Wolf Point (Or how not to get a good nights sleep)
It's
a Friday night and I had another hard rainy day of pedaling, it felt good
to pull into Wolf Point and I was looking forward to a peaceful evening
and a nice dinner. Jerry and Bridgette have been battling flat tires
since starting their trip in Duluth (they average 3 flats a day!) and
they came in behind me by about 40 minutes so I decided to scout for a
hotel for the night while I was waiting, the Homestead Hotel was the
ticket. (The hotel manager was very nice and she was very helpful, she
let us check in early and had no problems with our bringing bicycles in
the hotel.)
A Side
Note: When traveling through Wolf Point don't over look the Homestead
Hotel, it is about 1/2 mile off route but seems to be the best place in
town and the price was very reasonable (about $50.00) They also have a
restaurant on site.
After enjoying a nice meal with Jerry and Bridgette we decided to call it an early night, I was sound asleep by 10:30pm --
11:30pm
- WHAM - BAM - BAM, I was awakened by a loud series of thuds on the
wall inches from my head, then I hear yelling and screaming... I heard
a young girl sobbing and saying the words "Stop, you're raping me,
stop" over and over again... I debated what to do... and decided that I
had to call the front desk and let them know what was going on, minutes
later a sheriff arrived and minutes after that he escorted the young
lady into his squad car, obviously to take her home... It turns out
that it was Prom night in Wolf Point and some unlucky young gal had the
misfortune of choosing a complete scumball for her date.
Needless to say, I didn't sleep very well this night, but maybe I prevented a rape so alls well that ends well.
May 27th, 2007
This was
the first beautiful cycling day of the trip, I rode from Glascow
to Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs in perfect temps and with a nice
tailwind! And the scenery was wonderful! I felt better this day than
any day before (though my ring finger is still numb!)
My goal for the day was
Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs to camp and soak in the hot springs that I
had heard so much about, I rode like the wind over gently rolling
terrain and as I neared my destination I saw a monster hill in the
distance... I was hoping that the camp ground was on this side of that
hill, it would make for a perfect day if that should happen...
Well, life has a funny
way of evening out everything, I did have a perfect day of riding and
the campground turnoff was half way up that hill (even better, in the
morning I'll only have half of the hill to climb!) but I had forgotten
that this was a holiday weekend... I rode the 2 miles to the lake side
campground and was met by young kids on 4 wheel ATV's spitting rocks
all over me as they ripped around the gravel road. I rode every inch of
the lakeside camp ground looking for a camp site but the locals had beaten me to it,
there were scores of kegs, RV's, boom boxes and ATV's everywhere, it
was not the kind of place I wanted to camp!
So I rode back up to
the Sleeping Buffalo Resort, it is located about a mile from the lake
and from a distance appears to be a water park... Up close it's another
matter. I have to say right up front that the staff at the resort were
very friendly and they try very hard to make your stay pleasant but I
simply can't put lipstick on a pig, this resort is rundown and
well past it's prime. You get the distinct impression that this was a
great place to stay 30 or 40 years ago... Now the hot spring spa has
been condemned, the beer garden is overgrown and the once charming
alpine cabins are now in shambles. They have a pool that is rusty brown
(because of the caustic properties of the water) with brownish green
water (the pool was always full of locals) but I simply couldn't bring
myself to get in, and the showers are actually two stubby pipes sticking out of
a wall in an open bay that trickle luke warm water... The fixtures are
corroded and covered in mineral scale. Oddly enough the store is well
stocked and they even opened it after hours for us, and the food at the
restaurant was quite good...
I honestly don't want
to sound ungrateful, the people at Sleeping Buffalo Resort were all
wonderful and I was very grateful for having a place to camp ($5.00 per
tent - camping in the beer garden court yard) but the place really
could be very nice if only they would clean it up. It's sad that it is
in such a bad state of disrepair.
On the up side, I met
Don and Marcia, a very nice couple who were doing a long distance
bicycle tour from their home near Seattle to points East, their tent
was already setup in the beer garden when I arrived, they are both
retired educators and we had a grand time sharing dinner and later
enjoyed good conversation over drinks at the resort bar. As with the
last trip the new friends I make along the way truly are the greatest
reward of the ride!
May 15th, 2007
I will be in eastern Montana in
late May 2007, it's almost 700 miles from the eastern border to the
western border and I plan on spending a couple of days in Glacier NP so
I'll be in Montana for quite awhile! Check back soon!
Montana - by Frank Zappa
(lyrics adapted by yours truly)
I might be riding through Montana soon
Just to ride me up on top of Logan's Pass
Riding it up, coasting on down…
On my steel green Trek
I'll be the talk of the town
By myself I wouldn't
Have no boss,
But I'd be riding my awesome - steel green Trek
Riding my awesome - steel green Trek
…
…Well I might Ride along the border - with my groupo gleamin'
in the moon-lighty night - And then I'd Get a cuppa Gatorade
N' give my foot a push - just me 'n the Trek 520
Over by the sage brush bush
N' then I might just - jump back on
An' ride Like a cowboy - into the dawn to Montana
Moving to Montana soon - Yippe Ty Oh Ty Ay!